Sewing-machine.



A. RONTKE.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED 05c. 22. 1911.

l 1 92,822. Patented July 25, 1916.

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SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 22. I9II.

Patented July 25, 1916.

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WITNESSES.

r M/I/E/VTOR A TTOR/IIEI A. RONTKE.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED DEC. 22, Hill.

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A TTOR/VEV A. RONTKE- SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED DEC. 22, Ian.

1 1 92,822. Patented July 25, 1916 4 SHEETS-SHEET 4' fiiw w,

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UNITED STATES PATENT @FFIQE.

ALBERT RONTKE, OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR .TO THE SINGER MANU- FACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SEWING-MACHINE.

T 0 all whom it may concern Be it known that I, ALBERT RoN'rKE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Bridgeport, in the county of Fairfield and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing- Machines, of which the following is a speci iication, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings. 1

This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines of the class employed in the manufacture of mens collars, and has to do particularly with the means employed for inserting and stitching into the band the turned down or body portion of a collar of the character herein illustrated and described.

In the manufacture of collars of the type herein referred to it is essential that the edge portion inserted in the collar band be of a given length when stitched, but as the free edge of such inserted portion comprises the raw edges of several plies of fabrics, the tendency of such portion is to become slightly stretched, due to the stitching operation and other conditions of manipulation incident to the process of manufacture; and in the earlier constructions the operator, through the employment of a suitable hand instrument, slightly fulls such edge as the stitching progresses, which operation of necessity calls for such care and attention on the part of the operator as comes only from extensive experience, and lessens to a substantial degree the capacity of the machine.

The automatic fulling of the inserted edge of the body portion of the collar is important to the present invention, and to this end there is provided a fulling blade carried by a vertically movable cloth-presser-carrying bar, the effective end of which, through its vertical movements, acts to slightly full the inserted fabrics, said end being made ineffective through the adjustment of the guiding elements from collar inserting to edge stitching position.

It is to be understood that the term fulling as herein employed is not intended to imply the crimping, gathering or ruflling of fabrics, but something more nearly approaching a process wherein the fulling of the fibers is substantially imperceptible.

The invention is herein shown as applied to a Singer 108w class machine, substantially such as is represented by U. S. Patent No.

Specification of Letters Patent.

band, only such ing machine bed-plate.

Patented July 25, 1916.

Serial No. 667,329. 7

989,538, issued April 11, 1911 to-A. Rontke, but as it relates only 'tothe construction and application of the means employed for securing the body portion of a collar in the reference will be made to the usual well-known parts of the stitchforming and fabric-feeding mechanisms as is deemed necessary for a proper understanding of its application.

In the accompanying drawings illustratmg the lnvention, in the several figures of which like parts are similarly designated, F1gure 1 is a view in perspective of the front end and front side of a Singer 108w class machine equipped with the present invent1on. Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the front end portion of the sewing machine bed-plate shown in Fig. 1, viewed fro-1n the rear side of the machine, together with like views of the improved means for presenting the band and body portion of the collar to the action of the stitch-forming mechanism. Fig. 3. comprises views in side elevation of certain elements forming a part of the present invention suspended above the sewing machine bed-plate. Fig. t comprises detail views of certain elements forming a part of the present invention mounted on the sew- Fig'. 5 is a plan view of the back slide plate. Fig. 6 is a view of one variety of mens collars, the product of the present invention. Fig. 7 is a cross-section of the collar shown in Fig. 6, illustrating the body portion separated from the band. Fig. 8 is a sectional view on line X, X, Fig. 1. Fig. .9 is a perspective view of the elements pivoted upon the eloth-presser bar, said elements being shown in section at their pivotal points.

Referring to the figures, 1 represents the bed-plate of the sewing machine upon which is mounted a bracket arm comprising an arm bracket 2 and standard 3, 4; a needle-carrying bar provided with a needle 5, 6 a clothpresser-carrying bar in the lower end of which is secured, by screw'7, a cloth-presser comprising shank ,8 provided with a serrated cloth-presser 9, 10 a feeding-footcarrying bar provided at its lower end with a serrated feeding foot 11 and at its opposite end connected by a link 12 with a bell-crank lever 13 which is pivoted on a stud 14c threaded into an extended portion of a collar 15 secured on said cloth-pressercarrying bar, the upper end of said bellfao crank lever being connected by a link 16 with a crank arm 17 formed integral with a crank 18 operated from a shaft flange 19 carried by a needle-bar-actuating shaft 20, the latter being shown in dotted lines only, Fi 1.

is the mechanism above referred to (elements 12 to 19, both inclusive) for transmitting from the main shaft to the bars 6 and 10 alternately arranged vertical movements is in construction and operation substantially the same as that pointed out in Patent No. 989,538 previously referred to, further reference to the relative action of these parts is deemed unnecessary; and as the means for giving feed movements to the needle 5, feeding foot 11 and feeddog 21 is the same as that employed in the construction represented by said patent, further reference thereto is deemed unnecessary.

22 represents a throat or needle plate, 23 and 24 front and back slide plates, respectively, 25 a'bracket formed integral with a bushing 26 secured in the head 27 of the bracket arm and through which passes the cloth-presser-carrying bar 6. A clownwardly extended frame plate 28 is secured by screw 29 to the bracket 25 and provided at its lower end with a transversely ar ranged fulcrum plate 30 provided with a fulcrum pin 31 upon which is pivoted a rocking edge-guide 32 provided with an edge-guiding surface 33 and held in its normal or operative position by a spring 34 seated at one end in a suitable cup-shaped opening (not shown) formed in said frame plate, the opposite end of said spring bearing against an arm 35 extending up from said rocking edge-guide.

36 represents a cam lever pivoted by a screw 37 to the lower end of the plate 28 and provided with a cam portion 38 which, when moved in the direction indicated by the arrow 6, acts on the heel or extended portion 39 of the edge-guide 32 to elevate its opposite or edge-guiding end 33 for a purpose later to be explained.

In the shank 8 of the serrated presser-foot 9 is formed a slot 40 and a circular opening 41 in which latter is mounted an eccentric 42 forming a part of a flange 43, and to the opposite side of said flange is suitably secured a lever 44 which, when moved, acts to turn said eccentric in said opening, the limit of such movement in opposite directions being controlled by a pin 45 secured in the shank 8 contacting with one or the other of the walls 46, 47 forming a part of the flange 43.

48 represents a fulcrum screw which is constructed with the usual enlarged screw driver head and passes from right to left, first through a fulling blade-carrying lever 49 provided with a fulling blade 50, and through the eccentric 42 and lever 44, said fulcrum screw being held against accidental movement by a washer 51 and nut 52, a pin 53 carried by an arm 54 of the lever 49 acting in the slot 40 to hold said lever against rocking movement upon said fulthe under edge of the rocking edge-guide to raise the latter at such time as the presser-carrying bar 6 lSlHOVQCl vertically by the action of the presser-lifting lever 56.

57 represents a movable edge-guide-carrying plate provided with an upturned thumb piece 58, flange 59 and oppositely arranged walls 60 and 61, said carrying plate being slidably mounted in a groove 62 formed in the plate 24 and frictionally held against accidental movement by spring 64 and washer 65, said stud screw passing up through an opening 66 formed in said plate 24 and being threaded into said carrying plate.

A movable edge-guide 67 is secured by screws, as 68, on the carrying plate 57 and provided with a vertically arranged edgeguiding surface 69 and separator blade 70. Adjustably secured by screws, as 72, to the slide plate 24 is a stop or abutting plate 71 which acts to limit the backward movement of the carrying plate 57. 73 represents an edge-guide plate adjustably secured by screws, as 74, to said slide plate, the vertical end wall 75 of which acts as an edgeguide, and 76 represents an opening in said edge guide plate. 77 is a fulling blade plate slidably mounted in a groove 78 formed in the slide plate 24 and underlying said edge guide plate, said fulling blade plate being provided with a lug 79 which, at the will of the operator, is acted on by one of the walls 60, 61 and moved in the direction of its length, which causes the raised surface 80 of the plate 77 to be moved into or out of effective relationship with the free end of the blade 50, dependent upon whether an edge or an inserting seam is to be effected.

In the operation of the improved mechanism, the common line of edge stitches 82 in the collar band 81, commencing at the point 83 and ending at 84, but before doing this the guiding and separating elements, together with the fulling blade plate 77, are adjusted to the posi tions shown in Figs. 1 and 2, or to their limit of backward movement, which is controlled by the angular wall 85 of the element 71 contacting with the wall 86 of the element 57 and the lower edge of the edge-guiding a stud screw (33,

practice is to place the surface 33 resting on the upper surface of the edge-guide plate 73 with its guiding wall 75 in vertical alinement with said guiding surface. When placing the line of edge stitches 82, the fulling blade 50 may occupy either its inoperative or operative position, as at such time thefabrics are out of the field of action of said blade.

When the edge stitching 82 has reached the point 84:, the movable edge-guide is adjusted to its forward or effective position, which is determined by the end 87 of the element 57 contactingwith the Wall 88 of the edge-guide plate 73, and the separator blade 70 positioned between the plies of fabrics comprising the collar band, such ad ustment of the movable edge-guide also acting to place the raised portion 80 of the fulling blade plate 77 beneath the free or effective end of the fulling blade 50, then the clothpresser-carrying bar is raised by the presserbar-lifting lever 56, thus elevating the clothpresser 9, fulling blade 50 and, through the pin 55, the rocking edge-guide 32 sufiiciently for the convenient placing of the body portion of the collar beneath the needle and the raw edges 89 in guiding relationship with,

the edge-guiding surface 69 and between the plies of said collar band as illustrated in Fig. 6, then the cloth-presser-carry ng bar is permitted to take its normal position and the stitching of the seam 90 is commenced, the upper ply of the collar band passing beneath a pin 91 carried by the rockmg edgeguide 32 to insure the vertical alinement of the folded edges 92 and 93.

As the fulling blade 50 is carried by an element attached to the cloth-presser-carrying bar, and as the latter is moved vertically between the successive feed movements, it will be readily understood that the free end of said fulling blade, in connection with the surface 80, will act to slightly full the raw edges of the plies of fabrics comprising the body portion of the collar; and that the extent of such fullness is controlled by the adjustment of the lever l l, as previously pointed out. Then the seam 90 has ad vanced to within a short distance of the finish end, the elements 67 and 77 are returned to their inoperative positions and the seam completed.

When it is desired to correct or mend the seam 90, the operator moves the cam lever 36 in the direction indicated by the arrow 25, thus raising and holding the element 33 out of interference with the manipulation and stitching of the collar.

Claims:

1. In a sewing machine, the combination with fabric-feeding and stitch-forming mechanism, including a cloth-presser-car rying-bar, of edge-guides for guiding super-posed plies of fabric to the action of said mechanisms, a fulling blade carried and actuated by said cloth-presser-carrying bar for fulling one or more of said plies as they are being fed to the stitch-forming mechanism, and means under the control of the operator for placing said fulling blade into and out of effective action during the stitching operation. 7. V

2. In a sewing machine, the combination with fabric-feeding and stitch-forming mechanisms including a needle and needlecarrying bar, of edge-guides for guiding superposed plies of fabric to the action of said mechanisms, a fulling blade having fulling movements in directions corresponding to the stitch-forming movement of the needle for fulling one or more of said plies as they are being fed to the stitch-forming mechanism, and means under the control of the operator, including an adjustable plate, for placing said fulling blade into and out of effective action during the stitching operation.

3. In a sewing machine, the combination with fabric-feeding and stitch-forming mechanisms including a cloth-presser-carrylng bar provided with a cloth-presser, of edge-guides for guiding superposed plies of fabric to the action of said mechanisms, a fulling blade located at one side only of the line of scam formation for full-ing one or more of said plies as they are being fed to the stitch-forming mechanism, and means under the control of the operator, including an adjustable plate, for placing said fulling blade into and out of effective action during the stitching operation.

1. In a sewing machine, the combination with fabric-feeding and stitch-forming mechanisms including a cloth-presser-carrying bar provided with a cloth-presser, of edge-guides for guiding superposed plies of fabric to the action of said mechanisms, a fulling blade located at one side only of said cloth-presser for fulling one or more of said plies as they are being fed to the stitchforming mechanism, and means under the control of the operator for placing said fulling blade into and out of efiective action during the stitching operation.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination with fabric-feeding and stitch-forming mechanisms including a cloth-presser-carrying bar, of edge-guides including a rocking edge-guide for guiding superposed plies of fabric to the action of said mechanisms, a fulling blade carried and actuated by said clothpresser-carrying bar for fulling one or more of said plies as they are being fed to the stitch-forming mechanism, and means under the control of the operator for placing said fulling blade into and out of effective action during the stitching operation.

6. In a sewing machine, the combination with fabric-feeding and stitch-forming mechanisms including a cloth-presser-carrying bar provided with a cloth-presser, edge-guides, including a rocking edge-guide, for directing superposed plies of fabric to the action of said mechanisms, a fulling blade pivot'ally attached to, actuated by and located at one side of said clothresser for fulling one or more of said plies as they are being fed to the stitch-forming mechanism, and means under the control of the operator, including an adjustable fulling blade plate, for placing said fulling blade into and out of effective action during the stitching operation.

7. In a sewing machine, the combination with a fabric-feeding and stitch-forming mechanism including a cloth-presser-carrying bar provided with a cloth-presser, of a fulling mechanism operatively connected with the actuating mechanism of the sewing machine and employing a fulling blade operative at one side only of said clothresser. In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

ALBERT RONTKE.

lVitnesses:

A. M. DONIHEE,

F. W. CUTTING.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

' Washington, D. G. 

